Described as the most modern African country open to the Western world, a host of enchanting places, Tunisia awaits to be discovered
By Sena Alkan
Locatedon top of a steep cliff overlooking the Mediterranean, my first destination, Sidi Bou Said has a lot to offer with its traditional blue and white houses, cascading flowers, a coast of beautiful sand and clear blue water and cozy cafes, a reflection of Mediterranean hospitality.
I headed towards Sidi Bou Said after a long cruise trip in the Mediterranean Sea with hopes of running away from an overwhelming routine. When I arrived at Tunisia, all its mysterious, relaxing and breath-taking views made me feel that I was about to experience the most unforgettable moments of my life.
With its narrow pedestrian streets and staircases between the traditional white and blue houses decorated with the hamsa, the protective hand of Fatima, which is believed to guard those living there from bad fortune, Sidi Bou Said was the most suitable town to be portrayed as the little gem of the country.
In the town, the typical blue of the paintwork echoes the intense color of the sky and the Mediterranean Sea.
The best part of being in Sidi Bou Said at night is being far away from traffic jams, sound pollution, the disorganized long line of buildings.
During the day time, the town is a common destination for tourist groups, while at night the whole town calms down and is relaxing for those who want to escape the chaos of everyday routines.
The town, itself, is a must, not only for international tourists, but also for Tunisian families coming from the capital.
The best way to explore Sidi Bou Said is to spend a night in town to see the Arabic tale that surrounds you. If you decided to enjoy one night in the town, Dar Said, draped in flowers and sea views, is one of the nicest hotels in Tunisia with its exquisite nineteenth century architecture. As soon as I left the Sidi Bou Said tale, my next destination in Tunisia was La Marsa, which is the most northern seaside of the country.
On my way to La Marsa, I left all my prejudices behind, because Tunisia was apparently far better than the other Arab countries whose rulers were overthrown.
While tourists are returning to the country's Mediterranean beaches, the people of Tunisia enjoyed the new amendments upholding their democracy.
La Marsa looked more upscale than Sidi Bou Said with more cars on the roads, more lavish buildings… The city was illuminated with the brightness of the Mediterranean and the white houses.
Coffeehouse culture in Tunisia is one of the things I enjoyed most. You can watch the sea while sipping a cuppa of "cafe express", what the Tunisians call "espresso".
The coffeehouses on street corners await social butterflies, but not so much since the fascinating shades of vivid blue on the sea are enough to take your mind away from the world. Nearly everybody lounging at La Marsa's cafes were fixed, looking in the same direction: towards the sea in front of the coffeehouse.
They were talking without looking at each other. I assume this is the norm for those who live so close to the sea.
It was just like an Italian riposo (Italy's midday siesta) inherited from the opposite side of the shore. The ambiance was so relaxing that time was slipping away.
I believe no visit to Tunisia is complete until you reach a point where you desire to stay there forever. As the time of departure nears, I remember Paul Klee who was charmed by the light in Tunisia during his travel. He was so impressed that he wrote, "…color has taken possession of me; no longer do I have to chase after it, I know that it has a hold of me forever…" in reference to Tunisia.
After a 36-hour dreamy sojourn in Tunisia's beautifully preserved cities, I returned to La Goulette, the port of Tunisia to head back towards my home country. While sitting on the deck of the cruise ship, I looked back once more at the landscape of the country and told myself that Tunisia is "the black pearl" of the Mediterranean, a symbol of hope for wounded hearts through its mysteriously healing aura that surrounds its visitors.
Tips & Suggestions
GETTING THERE:
The writer travelled with a Mediterranean Cruise Ship: The Louis Olympia. Tunisair has direct flights from Istanbul's Airports to Tunisia.
GETTING AROUND:
Access to Sidi Bou Said is a half hour train ride from Tunisia, the capital. Cars are not allowed into the village center, so all visits involve walking. La Marsa is the last stop of TGM, Tunisia's train line.
WHERE TO STAY:
Dar Said, a tastefully restored nineteenth century mansion, is one of the most charming hotels in Sidi Bou Said. If you spend one night in Tunisia, I personally suggest you stay at Dar Said.
WHERE TO EAT:
Café des Nattes in Sidi Bou Said is ideal for teas, freshly-squeezed orange juice and pastries. If you visit La Masra, the best place to have lunch or dinner is Le Golfe, a luxurious venue overlooking the beach just steps away.
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