While Assos was the name of the ancient Greek city built on the skirts, it is a name used to generally refer to the region that encapsulates Behram and Behramkale as well as Kadırga Beach. The town of Behramkale sits atop a steep hill crowned by the Temple of Athena, while below it lies the ancient site of the school built by Aristotle. A short but steep drive down to the sea brings you to the Assos port, which has a number of accommodation options, including the upscale Kervansaray and Assos Hotels or heading East, the more casual AssosPlus, which doubles as a beach club, while the best spot for dinner is hands down Uzun Ev.
A drive down the northern side of Assos places you in Kadırga, which is a long strand of beach separated by a road, and then an entire spectrum of accommodation options from the traditional Altın Assos or Barbarossa hotels to the more low-key glamping tents at Club Beyaz. Getting from Kadirga to the marina is a short jaunt around a mountain, making the area more difficult to navigate without a car. Therefore, if you want a beach vacation, Kadırga is your spot. If you focus on visiting the ancient sites, opt to stay in the hilly town of Behramkale with Assos Sunset Butik and Assosyal; or, you can also hole up in the port of Assos, where a handful of beach clubs and restaurants are on its sole small strip.
Assos, aka Behramkale, the port and Kadırga beach can get crowded in summer and many visitors to the region play out at solely pitstops on their way to either a boutique hotel, bed and breakfast, or bungalow and campground, of which there are many dotting both the coastline that leads from Assos both east and west as well as the forested villages that sit in the hilltops of the mountains referred to as Mount Ida and in Turkish as Kaz Dağları. Assos as well as all the other villages from Küçükküyü to Babakale, are tied to the Ayvacık Municipality, known for having the highest number of villages at nearly 100. Many of those villages have been discovered by young urbanites who are either nature-lovers or remote-workers seeking a more relaxed pace of life. Many new incomers to the region have been opening up truly delightful locations throughout different villages ranging from hotels and beach clubs to cafes and restaurants.
One of the closest villages to Assos, Kozlu is one of the hilltop villages breathing a new life with boutique hotels and cafes. Hayat Bakery and Coffee are housed in a traditional building, with the decor adding to the cozy rustic vibe. The coffee and pastries are out of this world and from all over it. They also serve breakfast and gourmet hot and cold coffee drinks. Kozluhan is a 16-room boutique Hotel that serves up fare prepared by a gourmet chef. The comfortable yet stylishly decorated venue has stunning stone structures with courtyards and outdoor seating overlooking the village ambiance. Kozluyalı Glamping is located along the Kozlu villages section of the coast and consists of 10 independent pumpkin-shaped tents, each having its own private yet detached bathroom. A great spot to spend a day at the beach and indulge in the gourmet chef-prepared offerings are also available there. Occasionally there are even live music performances.
For two truly upscale accommodation options in one of the region’s traditional villages, Büyükhüsün, which neighbors Assos, houses the impressive Assos Sunaba Kasrı, which stands out for its spectacular views over the peninsula. Heading east, the village of Ahmetçe is famed for its spectacular overlooking views of the sea and the neighboring Greek isle of Mytilini, aka Lesbos. Simurg Inn has captured those views and established a variety of outdoor chill spots to enjoy it from. This upscale boutique hotel is as stunning as its vista, and it has a pool.
It can be a conundrum choosing whether to stay by the beach or up in a village, but the finer detail here is that the traditional homes in the hilltop villages that have been artistically converted into hotels which also offer more of the amenities, comforts and luxuries than the accommodation options along the predominantly undeveloped coastline. That said, Ida Costa is hands down the most luxurious accommodation on the beach, with a relaxing beach club, an international menu, and even a Turkish bath on the premises.
Most of the hotels and campsites dotting the coastline also double as beach clubs where people can spend the day and enjoy the beach. Of these, Yahya’nin Yeri, a very rustic, basic, and traditional Turkish restaurant with sun loungers set up on the beach, is the longest-standing favorite pit stop for those familiar with the area. Perfect in its simplicity and highly laidback, this place prepares a handful of surprisingly delicious Turkish lunch and snack items.
While Ayvacık may be the official municipality of the villages surrounding the Assos region, Küçükküyü is almost more the region’s communal center. Küçükküyü has a lively weekly market and lots of hotels and restaurants along its walkable coastline, which is paralleled by an even more active main thoroughfare, where all of the traditional local vendors, such as independent cheese and nut shops are interspersed with independent multipurpose shops and the occasional accessories and gift shops. The fact that it is not yet inundated with chain shops makes the town stand out for maintaining its traditional Turkish vibe.
The towns of Yeşilyurt and Adatepe, tower over Küçükküyü and are nestled in the woods, also offer a wide range of luxurious accommodations. Yeşilyurt, Ida Taş Konak is a full-on chic, elegant hotel with a pool and spa center, while Manici Kasrı stands out for its characteristic and colorful architecture and design. In Adatepe, there is Hünnap Han and Mavrasta Odalar, both stand-out options amongst many accommodation options in both villages. While these villages are away from the sea and admittedly quite hilly, people enjoy just hanging out in the quiet and classic vibe that both of these tourist towns offer, especially while spending the day at the traditional cafes, gözleme spots, and tea houses.
Last but not least and back at the beach, Cuppa Beach Glamping is the newest edition of comfortable camping near the shore and just three kilometers from Küçükküyü. Granted, a road separates the half-a-dozen dome tents set up on the premises, each with its own private bathroom and shower. On the other side of the road are the beach club and restaurants with sun loungers set up on a grassy lawn and a full kitchen dishing up burgers and other comfort food classics for guests and day-trippers.
