Throughout history, silk has been a symbol of luxury, wealth, power and social status. Finding its place in various aspects of our lives, including fashion, textiles and decoration. Its natural elegance, smooth texture and radiant shine have made it timeless.
The phrase "like silk" is a well-established metaphor in Turkish, describing something very fine, soft and shiny. In English, this phrase can be translated and paraphrased as follows: Hair as smooth as silk.
There is no definitive information about the exact historical origins and the discovery of silk. Some sources suggest that silk was discovered by the Chinese around 3,000 B.C., while others claim that it was used in the western part of Anatolia around 2,000 B.C.
The entire process of producing this unique fabric, which is quite challenging to obtain, is generalized and defined as sericulture.
One of the various sectors within sericulture acts as the initial step in providing the raw material. It involves the maintenance/cultivation of mulberry trees, which provide the necessary food for silkworms, the reeling of silk threads from the cocoons, the production of various products by weaving the spun threads, weaving, dyeing the silk threads and woven products, and ultimately, the trading of these products. This process can be considered as a summary of many production activities carried out in conjunction with sericulture.
The challenging process of silk production is the reason for its high quality and pricing. Silk is known for its durability and resistance to breakage. To identify the quality of this fabric, which has retained its popularity and value, it's essential to pay attention to specific details. A high-quality silk fabric should have a smooth and shiny texture, while lower-quality ones might exhibit pattern irregularities, knot-like spots or roughness. These factors highlight the importance of understanding the details to distinguish between different silk qualities.
One cocoon can produce silk threads ranging from approximately 900 to 1,500 meters (around 2,950 to 4,900 feet) in length. The initial stage of weaving includes boiling the raw silk, extracted from the cocoon, in soapy water to eliminate a layer known as "sericin." This boiling is essential for cleaning the silk. Silk meant for weaving can undergo a second boiling after the weaving process to ready it for fabric use, whereas silk threads designated for carpets undergo boiling after spinning. The following step entails preparing the silk threads based on the specific fabric they will be woven into.
After the raw silk thread is obtained, the next step is the twisting process. Twisting involves rotating the thread around its own axis to prevent the layers of the thread from separating, ensuring the uniformity of the silk, and increasing the thread's strength. The dyeing process can be done before or after weaving. Once silk threads and fabrics are taken to the dyeing house, they are passed through hot water and wound onto continuously rotating spools in winding machines. Within the dyeing vessels of these machines, materials such as wood, coal, resin, or dye substances are used for coloring. The threads are then tightly wound and dried. The fabrics are ironed before being sold.
Silk fabrics reflect light and have a shiny appearance. The quality of silk can also be distinguished by the vibrancy of its colors; fabrics with non-dull or quickly fading colors are considered high quality. Items made from this fabric should have smooth and sturdy stitches.
Today, silk remains a highly significant industry, with production continuing in many countries worldwide, mainly in China and India, using traditional or modern technologies.
It is known that the first silk fabric in Türkiye was woven in Bursa during the Ottoman period. In the Ottoman Empire, centers for silk processing used raw silk imported from Iran, silk was produced in cities like Bursa, Istanbul, Tokat, Amasya and Mardin, with Bursa being particularly prominent. Despite regional variations, silk fabric patterns are generally delicate and elegant.
During the 14th century, Bursa played a crucial role in the production and trade of silk in various aspects. The diversity of patterns and motifs in Turkish culture, combined with vibrant colors, gained worldwide admiration, making silk products from Bursa highly looked after. The Silk Road, named after the commodity most commonly traded at that time, connected China to Anatolia and Europe, with Bursa serving as one of the final stops in Anatolia along this historical route.
Fabrics produced in Bursa, along with their weaving techniques, material qualities and designs, are considered works of art. Items made from Bursa silk, including textiles and handicrafts, hold significant value.
Traveler Johann Hans Schiltberger, in his travel diary after visiting Bursa, praised the beauty of the city's silk production and weaving examples. Similarly, the famous explorer Ibn Battuta, in his travel diary, described the city's beautiful bazaars, lively trade and magnificent caravanserais. Some of the frequently visited historical places in the city bear names associated with silk, such as Koza Han (Cocoon Inn), Ipek Han (Silk Inn), and Ipek Pazarı (Silk Market).
Throughout the centuries, textile products were essential business of the Ottoman Empire. Ottoman silk fabrics, produced using the richest materials of the time, gained the recognition they deserved and became famous worldwide. These valuable fabrics created during the Ottoman era show significant aspects of the period. Woven on handlooms, these pieces were crafted using the latest technologies available at that time.
