Belgrade, which sits on the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, is a fascinating destination that often goes unnoticed by travelers. However, this city has much to offer, from its rich history and culture to its vibrant nightlife and delicious cuisine.

The city, known as Beograd in Serbian, derives its name from the phrase "white city." Although the castle walls that once encircled the city may have been the inspiration for this name, Belgrade today is a verdant paradise that teems with greenery.

The city has been shaped by centuries of history and has a diverse range of architectural styles, from medieval fortresses to modern skyscrapers. Its cultural scene is equally vibrant and impressive, with numerous museums, galleries and theaters showcasing Serbian art and history.

Accommodation options are endless in the city as many people rent their apartments on websites like Airbnb and booking.com. Plus there are many beautiful hotels such as the historical Hotel Moskva, which is in Terazije.

My husband and I stayed at Max Luxury Apartments. Its interiors were modern and the room was well-furnished, even though the building was over a hundred years old. We had a wonderful stay in our room with a stunning view thanks to its prime location, which gave us easy access to all the places we wanted to visit. However, I would like to offer a word of caution: when opting for this type of accommodation, it is crucial to maintain open communication. It is imperative that you get in touch with the person responsible for your stay as soon as you arrive in the city, to avoid any complications with accessing your room.

Luckily, Wi-Fi is readily available throughout the city. However, the occasional disconnection was an issue as we constantly switched between different networks while walking.

Authentic streets

In my opinion, one of the most compelling reasons to visit Belgrade is its compact size, which makes it possible to explore the city thoroughly with a tight schedule. During our two-day stay, we managed to see most of the must-visit attractions and experience the city's multidimensional culture.

The only challenge here is the limited daylight hours during the winter season, which required us to wake up early for our daytime excursions since the city plunges into complete darkness at 5 p.m. Nevertheless, waking up early is a small price to pay for the memorable winter getaway experience that Belgrade offered. Besides, the city remains bustling in the evenings, with plenty of charming venues to explore.

My husband and I both love to explore cities on foot, so we decided to walk around Belgrade rather than use public transportation. We walked a total of 40 kilometers (25 miles) each in only two days. Although we did kind of regret our decision in the freezing cold of December mornings and nights during our stay, afterward, we’re glad we did it because we got to experience the unique views and delicious pastries and coffee of Kalemegdan, located at an important point where the Danube and Sava rivers intersect. In addition, walking on the bright streets adorned with colorful lights feels pretty good and Christmas trees infused the atmosphere with a wondrous enchantment, I must say.

While the name has already been mentioned, let me start with Kalemegdan for the list of must-visit locations in Belgrade.

Kalemegdan is located in the very center of the city and it is very close to the city’s main street, Knez Mihailova. The area has been invaded more than a hundred times in history, and it was conquered by Ottoman forces in 1521. Today, it is still the central place for cargo and commercial ships heading to Europe.

Kalemegdan and its surroundings are located on a hill rising at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers. The square, which has wonderful views, impresses people with its good-condition structures and history. Kalemegdan Park, where the entrance is free, also hosts important structures such as monuments, sculptures, museums and galleries.

There is also the Keys Handover Memorial in the park. This horizontal marble monument depicts the Ottomans handing over the keys of the Belgrade, Smederevo, Sabac and Kladovo fortresses to the Serbs on April 6, 1876, on the right side of the Kalemegdan Park entrance.

Belgrade, which is seen as the gateway to Europe and the center of the trade routes opening to Europe, was conquered by Ottoman forces in 1521 under the leadership of Suleiman the Magnificent. After the conquest of the city by the Ottoman sultan, the Orthodox population here was sent to Istanbul to the area known today as the "Belgrad Forest" region. It takes its current name from this period. Damat Ali Pasha Turbeh (the tomb of the Pasha) is also located in the middle of this square.

The name Kalemegdan in the area where the Belgrade Fortress is located and the clock tower built in the middle of the 18th century in the park as "Sahat Kula" draws attention as an indicator of the borrowed Turkish words in the Serbian language. If you are Turkish, you will encounter many words that will be familiar to you in those cute little cafes that enchant you with the smell of fresh bread and dough. For example, we were quite surprised to see a bakery called "Taze,’" which means "fresh" in Turkish.

Stambol Kapija (Istanbul Gate), one of the gates providing the entrance and exit of the Belgrade Fortress, is located in this square. In the park, there is a fountain built by Grand Vizier Sokullu Mehmet Pasha in 1578. When you leave the fountain behind and go a little further, you can feast your eyes on magnificent city views and greenery.

There is also an open-air Military Museum in the park area, starting from the front of the Istanbul Gate, built by the Ottomans, with tanks from World War I and similar heavy weapons on display. It is possible to go inside the military museum and see the weapons, bombs and missiles taken as war spoils from the Kosovo Liberation Army, rare weapons and parts of the United States' invisible warplane that was shot down in 1999 during the Kosovo War.

Little bit Ottoman, little bit Yugoslavia

Belgrade has a rich and storied background. The city was reigned over by the Ottomans, the Austria-Hungarian Empire and in more modern times, socialist Yugoslavia. This history is what gives the city its rich and multidimensional atmosphere and feel. You can sense the post-Sovietic vibes from time to time and also feel the colors of the Ottoman Empire. When you look at the architecture, you will feel like you are roaming in a Central European city despite being in the Balkans because the designs evoke an Austrian vibe.

As you enter the city center, "Stari Grad" ("Old Town" in Serbian), you will definitely feel the grayish tone of the Yugoslavian socialist rule. But when you enter the chic neighborhoods, the new settlement area named Novi Beograd (the New Belgrade), that grayish tone is replaced with a colorful and vibrant atmosphere.

These two regions, separated by the Sava River, once again manifest the bitter dichotomy about this historical Balkan city.

If you're planning to explore Belgrade, Republic Square in Stari Grad is an ideal place to start. The square is a popular gathering place for locals of all ages and is surrounded by several notable landmarks.

This historic square is anchored by a horse statue of Serbian Prince Mihailo Obrenovic III, a Serbian leader who played a crucial role in securing independence from the Ottoman Empire. When you take a moment to appreciate the statue of Prince Mihailo, sculpted by Italian artist Enrico Pazzi in 1882, you'll be surrounded by other historic buildings as well. And of course, the National Museum of Serbia, one of the country's most important cultural institutions, is also located in the square.

Inside the museum, you'll find an incredible collection of over 400,000 pieces and artifacts, including works by renowned painters such as Picasso, Van Gogh and Kandinsky. Unfortunately, the museum has been closed for much of the year due to ongoing renovation work. So, while it may not be accessible during your visit, Republic Square and its many other attractions are definitely worth exploring.

When exploring Belgrade, it's impossible not to mention Knez Mihailova Street. Named after Prince Mihailo, this pedestrian and shopping street is lined with magnificent historical buildings on both sides, stretching from Kalemegdan in the city center to Republican Square.

Today, the street is the heart of the city, bustling with activity and the liveliest central point for socializing among locals. As you explore the street, you can take in the sights and sounds of street musicians and pause for a refreshing drink at the beautiful cafes.

The buildings along the street were constructed in the post-Ottoman domination period and were heavily influenced by Western architecture. Since the street's original appearance has been preserved under legal protection, the original appearance of the buildings remains unchanged. However, their purpose has evolved over time from residential to commercial, hosting an array of shops, cultural centers, bookstores, restaurants, cafes, consulates and airline offices.

Exploring the city is not complete without a stroll down this picturesque street, which is a favorite gathering spot for both locals and tourists, offering a unique blend of history, culture and modern amenities.

You can also stroll through the charming neighborhoods of Skadarlija and Zemun, and admire the unique architecture of Saint Sava Temple.

The Museum of Yugoslav History is another must-visit, offering a deep insight into the past of the country, which spent close to 400 years under Ottoman rule.

Nikola Tesla

When thinking about museums in Belgrade, one that immediately comes to mind is the Nikola Tesla Museum. In the center of the city, a villa holds the world's largest collection dedicated to his life and works.

The museum offers fascinating insights into the life of Tesla, the Serbian scientist who famously said, "If your hate could be turned into electricity, it would light up the whole world." Visitors can closely examine his inventions, including wireless devices, radars, radios and remote controls – all of which form the cornerstone of modern life – as well as numerous other works that demonstrate his genius ahead of his time.

The museum tour begins with a brief film summarizing Tesla's life and continues with an exploration of some of his most significant inventions. The film is presented with Turkish subtitles, which brought a smile to our faces.

I have to admit that the experiment, which showcases the wireless electric transmission as invented by the late genius, was our favorite. In this experiment, a museum official distributed fluorescent lamps to volunteers who held the contraptions, which had no wires attached to them whatsoever, up in the air. After the Tesla coil was activated, all lamps shone brightly in our hands.

"Wingardium leviosa," my husband quipped in reference to the spell in my beloved "Harry Potter" series; as everyone burst into laughter, proving that the J.K. Rowling creation remains popular.

Kafana culture

Serbians also have special places called "kafanas," whose name is derived from the Turkish word "kahvehane," meaning "coffee shop." Those locations are far from being mere coffee shops though, as many serve as fancy restaurants with live music.

Despite not being known for its romantic atmosphere, Belgrade is actually a city brimming with love. One place, in particular, emanates this feeling, with its entrance adorned with red umbrellas, a dimly lit ambiance and an interior covered in red roses: Manufaktura.

Manufaktura on Knez Mihailova Street can be interpreted as a modern take on kafana culture. Restoran Crevena Ruza (Red Rose) can be another option, if you want to experience the taste of Serbian cuisine and bask in a romantic ambiance. But be sure to plan ahead and call to make a reservation before arriving at these highly sought-after venues.

When we visited Belgrade in December, the World Cup was still underway. As a result, pubs and cafes were bustling with crowds of people gathered to watch the games. My husband and I opted for a small, quiet pub to watch a match. The owners of this humble pub were warm and friendly, just like all the other folks we met in the cafes, shops and the street. This charming place, which also served as a cozy home to a sick black cat, will forever remain in our hearts as a fond memory – I hope she is feeling better now.

Appetizing cuisine

Belgrade is also known for its lively nightlife, with a wide variety of bars, clubs and restaurants to suit all tastes. You can enjoy traditional Serbian food and drink or relax with a drink by the river.

The city offers a range of local delicacies that are a must-try, including "cevapi" and "pljeskavica." Interestingly, cevapi is often referred to as the Serbian version of the "kebab" in Turkish cuisine.

For a taste of authentic Balkan cuisine, head to the upscale Mali Kalemegdan restaurant in the Kalemegdan compound, where they serve mouth-watering cevapi. While pljeskavica may not suit the palates of those with more refined tastes, it's a dish that most people are sure to appreciate.

When it comes to breakfast, you'll find bakeries and patisseries on almost every street corner. Just like the rest of the Balkans, Serbs are renowned for their delicious pastries, so don't miss the chance to sample some of the delectable baked goods.

The iconic Kalemegdan park and the banks of the Sava and Danube rivers are serene spots to start your day in Belgrade. You can enjoy the sweet songs of birds as you sip a morning coffee while munching on a freshly baked croissant or fresh sandwich in the picturesque Kalemegdan park.

Ada in the heart of the city

Ada Ciganlija, or simply Ada (the same in Turkish), is a unique river island that has been transformed into a peninsula in the heart of Belgrade, between the Sava and Danube rivers. With its beach, cafes, restaurants, jogging tracks and even a tennis court, this vibrant island is a favorite destination for locals and tourists alike.

When you get to Ada, it will feel like you are in a coastal city even though Serbia is a landlocked country.

On Ada Ciganlija, you can find a plethora of activities to keep you entertained. Take a dip in the river, soak up the sun on the beach, rent a bike, go canoeing or simply take a leisurely stroll along the waterfront. With its stunning views and fantastic dining options, Ada is the perfect spot to spend a relaxing day by the Sava River and it is only 4 kilometers from the city center.

Overall, Belgrade is a hidden gem of the Balkans, waiting to be discovered by adventurous travelers seeking an authentic cultural experience.