Braids may be one of the oldest hairstyles in the world. For instance, the Upper Paleolithic female statue Venus of Willendorf and Venus of Brassempouy, an ivory female human face statue estimated to be created about 25,000 years ago, had something in common: braided hair.
Throughout history, braids have played an integral role in terms of defining social classes, representing tribes and mapping escape routes for slaves. Some varieties of African braiding, which have recently attracted attention, reflect cultural patterns beyond being fashionable.
The impact of slavery on African women is an integral part of an attempt to understand braiding history. In addition to the psychological and physical trauma, their identities were exposed to erasure. They were mostly forced to convert to Christianity and their heads were shaved before they boarded the slave ships – they were stripped of their culture. Even some laws prohibited women from wearing braids in public, leaving them no choice but to wear scarves.
Yet, the Black Power movement during the 1960s helped them rebel against European-centric beauty standards by celebrating braided hair. Especially in today's Harlem, a neighborhood in the United States where the African American population is dense and an iconic center of the African American cultural movement, the Harlem Renaissance, embodies many braiding studios that provide a sense of community, embracing their identity.
Mipo Tchinkou Edith Flaure, president of the Association for the Promotion of Cameroon's Wealth, spoke with an Anadolu Agency (AA) correspondent about the meanings and history of African braids.
Stating that African braids are the oldest hairstyle in the world, "Each ethnic group in Africa has its own 'African braid' style," Flaure said.
For example, Fulani tribes' women used to braid five long lines down as a symbol of heritage. These traditional styles would be passed down from generation to generation through the matriarchs, generally from grandmother to mother to daughter, which became an inseparable part of black and African cultures. Even though it is a type of fashion today, it is also a celebration of ancestral roots and embracing historical culture.
Flaure explained that ethnic groups from Africa such as Wolofs, Fangs, Fulani, Mandingo, Masai, Oromo, Bantu, Yoruba, Hausa and Bamileke use an "African braid" model that reflects the geography they live in and their cultural richness.
Expressing that braiding patterns in Africa reflect social conditions such as marital status, age, wealth and rank, Flaure said that braiding also differs according to activities such as funerals and weddings that the person attends daily.
Emphasizing that slavery had a profound effect on African history and culture, "The African braid was the communication method of slaves who were not allowed to talk to each other," Flaure added.
She also noted that the slaves depicted mountains, hills and crossing points of the region through braids in their hair to show their friends' escape routes.
Underlining that Africa experienced a tragic period of exploitation during the slave trade, "Slaves would hide rice in the braided part of their hair and then eat that to avoid starvation," she said.
Expressing that African slaves lived away from their own culture for many years, "The hair of African slaves who were taken to America and Europe was cut completely without distinguishing between men and women. With the spreading of the 'nappy' trend, which was introduced in the 2000s to encourage Africans to use their natural hair, the 'African braid' started to attract attention all over the world again. The movement was not just for fashion, it was also an expression of regaining their own identity,” she added.
Cornrows are one of the common braiding patterns worldwide. Symbolizing the person's tribe, the warriors and kings also preferred this model. Goddess braids are among other popular styles. They are thick, extremely defined and adorned with metal accents.
Box braids, on the other hand, can take up to eight hours to make. They were a sign of wealth as they were costly to have done. Faux locs mimic dreadlocks and are created through braiding and then wrapping.
