London Fashion Week commenced on Friday with Irish designer Paul Costelloe showcasing classic looks, while Turkish-born Bora Aksu drew inspiration from sculptor Eva Hesse, marking the event's 40th anniversary.

Using a more muted color palette than usual, Bora Aksu presented "a darker look that reflects the trauma expressed through Hesse's work" for his fall line, taking inspiration from the sculptor's work and life after visiting Hamburg, her birthplace before fleeing Nazi Germany in 1938.

Models wore masculine jackets, tailored bodices and floaty skirts adorned with feminine bows, ribbons, frills and embroidery. Aksu showcased his usual lace dresses, some with puffy sleeves. His designs came in cream, taupe, blue and grey, with some dabs of pink.

Models in white jackets and floaty skirts opened the show. There was a selection of plaid looks, followed by tailored tweed skirt suits, belted coats and short feminine dresses in darker shades. For the evening, there were patterned frocks with puffy sleeves.

There was plenty of color at Mark Fast's show, where models wore bright knits with oversized coats, crochet or fringed tops and dresses as well as jeans that morphed into denim boots. The vibrant collection, called "Galaxy Beyond," featured outfits in fuchsia, orange, purple, blue, chartreuse and black paired with shiny black boots or silver footwear.

This year marks 40 years since the British Fashion Council (BFC) held its first London Fashion Week, which is one of the four big catwalk fixtures alongside New York, Milan and Paris and is best known for its emerging talent and avant-garde trends.

"Of course, 40 is kind of a coming of age, a maturity and when we look back, I think we reflect on the incredible creativity that has come through London, and London Fashion Week as a platform," BFC Chief Executive Caroline Rush told Reuters.

London Fashion Week runs until Feb. 20, with the likes of Burberry, Erdem and Di Petsa also on the calendar.