Balat and Fener are adjoining neighborhoods in the Fatih district of Istanbul along the shores of the Golden Horn that are modest but full of history, yet due to urban transformation have modern restaurants, hotels and houses that do not compromise the historical texture. The special importance of Fener and Balat in Istanbul's history lies in the fact that this is where the Jews that came from Spain in the late 15th and early 16th century settled and remained until very recently. Moreover, Jewish people in and around Balat also attracted Georgian Jews to the area.
The Jews had escaped the Spanish Inquisition and came to Istanbul upon the invitation of Sultan Bayezid II. Since the 15th century a large part of the Jewish community of Istanbul has been living in Balat and Hasköy on the other side of the Golden Horn. Examples of their homes can still be seen today. These are generally three-story houses with narrow façades and an alcove-like outward expansion on the second or third floor. These buildings, which look a bit worn now, are symbols with their blue, yellow and red colors. Streets in the neighborhood are heaven for photographers.
A majestic, red building that we always see from afar and wonder about is also in Fener. The building I am talking about is the Fener Rum Boys' High School. Because the school, situated behind the Greek Patriarchate on Sancaklar Ramp is built with red bricks brought from France, it is called "the Red School." Many Greeks in the highest positions of the Ottoman Empire, head translators, patriarchs and high religious authorities were educated at this school, which was built in 1454 as a small building. The school was transformed into a high school providing a classic education after 1861. Today's bigger building was built in 1881 by architect Dimadis and is the biggest building after the Süleymaniye Mosque among the buildings on both sides of the Golden Horn and was built with materials mostly brought from Marseilles. Dimadis built chateaus in various countries in Europe, especially in Italy and Spain, and finished the building in five years. Built on a high hill above Fener, it is attractive due to its wide, high façade, red fire bricks and a thick tower with a dome in the center. Due to its size, it is often thought to be the Fener Greek Patriarchate, which is much smaller in size.
Although there are many cafes and restaurants in Fener and Balat, what makes the area unique for me are the meatballs cooked over hazelnut shells. The taste of meatballs cooked with hazelnut shell smoke is wonderful. One of the best examples can be found at the small, modest Fındık Kabuğu Restaurant that also serves wonderful cold appetizers and smoked lima beans. My favorite place in Istanbul for lima beans is Fasuli in Karaköy. But this place, I think, is also great. But as I said, do not expect much regarding decor or atmosphere.
If you are looking for a more modern and rich cuisine, I recommend Perispri in Fener. It is magnificently decorated and has a rich menu. Inside, it is like an antique shop. There are old candleholders, French chandeliers and polished old style tables and chairs. Likewise, rugs and paintings on the walls are also pretty old. It is as if it is from an old Turkish movie. There is also an old fireplace and a small but cute terrace. It is really cute even in winter. You can enjoy the view of the Golden Horn from here. The dinnerware is also very unique. I especially love the coffee cups. The coffee is prepared by cooking in a very special way. Table and coffee table covers are reminiscent of the past just like the ones our grandmothers used to knit. For a main course, the tandır with puree must be tried. Likewise, the walnut noodles they make themselves are also very good. The date dessert is wonderful. As I said, please pay attention to the dishes and especially the silverware used for serving. This place, transformed from an old car repair shop, is also an art gallery, and you can buy sculptures and ceramic pieces there.
Besides this place, Maide, Naftalin and Little House are also prominent cafes. After visiting these, you should visit the Ferruh Kethüda Mosque, which was built by Mimar Sinan, and Bulgarian St. Stephen Church, which draws attention because it was completely built from prefabricated steel. If you have not discovered these areas yet, go to Balat and Fene and discover their history and flavors.
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