The 100 buildings of Istanbul that have left their mark on the city's deep-rooted history have been catalogued in a book by Kültür A.Ş., the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality's culture enterprise. Edited by researcher and author Rose Mary Samanoğlu, the book "Istanbul'un 100 Binası" (The 100 Buildings of Istanbul) offers interesting information about the silent witnesses of history.
The featured buildings include examples of civil and military architecture along with others that are either in use or whose remains can be seen. The book also tells the stories of historic structures, some of which we pass by or stop to admire their elegant look. These structures include the "Bozdoğan Kemeri" (Valens Aqueduct) built in the 4th century, Galata Tower, one of the world's oldest towers, the Tophane-i Amire, one of the first industrial buildings of the Ottoman Empire and the Sinan Pasha Mansion, the favorite structure of Ottoman Sultan Murad III. Other buildings listed in the book include the Selimiye Barracks, established for the soldiers of the Nizam-ı Cedid (New Order) Army upon the order of Sultan Selim III; the Adile Sultan Pavilion, where the famous Turkish comedy series "Hababam Sınıfı" (The Chaos Class) was shot; Tayyare Apartments, Istanbul's first housing estate; the Bulgarian St. Stephen Church, which was made of prefabricated iron; Haydarpaşa Station; and the Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall, Istanbul's first hall designed exclusively for concerts. It also includes other modern architectural buildings.
The lesser-known buildings of Istanbul, some of which have already been demolished, are also covered in the book. In addition to intriguing stories of buildings, all "firsts" and "tops" are given in detail. Instead of architectural characters, the book focuses more on the historical roles the buildings played. To illustrate, the İmrahor Mansion built in the Kağıthane district was once the city's most well-known recreational area. However, researchers may now only find photos of the structure. In another example situated on the road between Şişhane and Taksim Square, Frej Apartments witnessed the tragic life story of Anjel, the only daughter of the Frej Family - a Christian family from Beirut. While the building impresses passersby with its glorious architecture, Doğan Apartments stand out as Istanbul's first building with an elevator. The Prinkipo Greek Orthodox Orphanage in Büyükada, one of the Princes' Islands, is known as the largest wooden building in Europe and the world's first multistory wooden building.
The Palace of Lausus
Dating back to the early Byzantine period, the Palace of Lausus was built from 415-420 A.D. by eunuch Lausos and was later acquired as imperial property during the reign of Theodosius II. The palace suffered from many fires like the one occurred in 461 that largely damaged it. The antique items of the palace were burned in a second fire 15 years later. Some of the pieces burned included a sculpture of Aphrodite brought from an ancient Knidos settlement, the sculpture of Hera from Samos and a sculpture of Athena from Lindos, an archeological site on Rhodes, along with various mythological animal figures. In its original architectural plan, the entrance is a circle-shaped hall surrounded with eight small niches. The hall is covered with an almost 20-meter diameter dome and a half-rounded portico opening through the hippodrome. The remains of the palace can be seen near the Firuz Agha Mosque in Sultanahmet.
The Palace of Bukoleon (Buceleon)
This Byzantine-era palace situated to the east of the Little Hagia Sophia and between the Cankurtaran and Kumkapı neighborhoods was built again in the 5th century. The name "Bukoleon" presumably originated from the Greek word "bukolos" (herdsman). In the Middle Ages, however, the world was believed to come from the two words "bus kai leon" (bull and lion). Later Western authors used the word "buceleon" (mouth of a lion). This information suggests that the history of the palace goes back a very long time, yet it was between the middle of the ninth century and the early 13th century that initial information about the palace was discovered. The palace was built by Teodosios II who reigned between 408 and 450 A.D. Certain parts of the historic palace have been survived to the present day, but they remain in neglect.
Yoros Castle
Also referred to as the "Anadolukavağı Kalesi" (Castle of Anadolu Kavağı) or "Ceneviz Kalesi" (Genoese Castle), the Yoros Castle is located to the south of the Bosporus' Black Sea entrance. Established to control the strait, the castle took its name from "Hieron" meaning holy shrine in ancient Greek. According to Ottoman historian Aşıkpaşazade, in 1391, Sultan Bayezid I arrived at the castle with his army. The sultan used the castle as a base and later built the Anatolian Fortress to begin preparations for the conquest. After the conquest of Constantinople, the castle became an Ottoman property. At the time of Sultan Bayezid II, the castle's glorious towers were embellished with crosses, and the castle still attracts the attention of local and foreign tourists. The letters placed on the tower looking toward the Black Sea are the abbreviation of the words that translate to "The divine light of Christ is the light of everyone."
Old Palace (Palace of Tear)
Following the conquest of Constantinople, Sultan Mehmed I commissioned a palace where Istanbul University currently stands. At that time, it replaced the Byzantine-era monastery on the Forum of Theodosius. According to historian Ruhi Edrenevri, the palace was designed by foreman Musliheddin. Tursun Bey, a chronicler of the period, wrote that the palace had a well-preserved harem, mansions, pavilions, administration buildings and a hunting area extending along the Golden Horn. French geographer Nicolas de Nicolay, who visited the city in the 16th century, also wrote that the palace has two gates, one of which was held open. Residing in the palace from 1505-1515, Giovantonio, an Italian man, stated in one of his accounts that the palace consisted of 25 buildings and was surrounded with exotic birds such as ostriches and peacocks. The sultan's harem was once situated in the old palace and the sultans used to pay a visit there when they wanted to see their concubines. The old palace hosted colorful entertainment, especially during religious holidays and special celebrations such as the birth of a sultan's child. When Hürrem Sultan, the beloved wife of Süleyman the Magnificent, wanted to stay with the sultan following a 1541 fire, the harem was moved to Topkapı Palace. Afterward, the old palace lost its fame and turned into a palace where less-popular or pregnant concubines lived. This is why some resources describe the palace as the Palace of Tear.
Kürkçü Inn
Kürkçü Inn was the Ottoman Empire's first commercial inn where sable skin coats were sold. Built on the Mahmutpaşa Slope in Eminönü, the inn is the only standing example of the caravanserais and inns that were built during the reign of Mehmed the Conqueror. Founded by Mahmud Pasha and built by architect Atik Sinan, the inn was built as a two story building on two separate courtyards. Once the commercial affairs developed in Mahmutpaşa, a second floor was built on the stable building located in the second courtyard. Thus, the second floor erected on the second courtyard and the second floor erected on the first courtyard is not in harmony. Although the Kürkçü Inn, which was once a popular hangout of the wealthy of the period, has been preserved due to its location, it is among the buildings that are in need of maintenance and repair.
Hacopulo Passage
Situated in Taksim, connecting İstiklal Avenue with Meşrutiyet Avenue, the passage takes its name after its first owner M. Hacopulo, a wealthy Greek Istanbulite. Built in 1871, Hacopulo Passage is a hypethral building featuring a courtyard in the middle and "T" shaped aisles. The Podima Stone, which was used on the floor of the courtyard, was collected from the beach of Yalıköyü (Podima) and used in the decoration of the gardens of Istanbul while the bigger stones were placed on small roads and passages.
The most important feature of the passage is that it has been home to the stores of button makers, printers, brode makers and model drawers since it first opened its doors. Having witnessed many important incidents throughout history, Hacopulo Passage is also one of the places that have had a great impact on Istanbul's culture and art scene. For instance, the printing press founded by Ahmed Mithat Efendi operated in the passage's 13th store. "İbret" (Lesson), a newspaper published by Namık Kemal in 1872, was printed at that printing press. The newspaper was closed down after 27 days, however, and both Namık Kemal and Ahmed Mithat Efendi were arrested and exiled. Following this incident, the passage became the meeting point of the Young Turks. While Kemal was one of the regulars of the passage, hairdresser Valentin Brothers, carpet maker Filipovic, restaurant and pub manager Kamelos and Neyrat, who sold Parisian-made bed mattresses and bedsteads, had stores in the passage as well. Furthermore, tailor Mademoiselle Adel, who offered her services to the most beautiful women in Pera, famous men's tailor Foskolo, Armao, Barbagalo & Marengo, as well as well-known shoe maker Heral, who is mentioned in the works of Said Naum Duhani and Recaizade Ekrem, maintained shops in the passage.
The store Adam Musiki, which was opened in 1869, was situated in the Tepebaşı direction of the passage. Although the store specialized in the sale and repair of musical instruments, the second floor of the store was turned into an auditorium over time. Dikran Çuhacıyan converted it into a school to perform Turkish operas in 1874, and Istanbul's first chamber orchestra performed in the very same room. In 1890, an artist named Zoli decorated the place and turned it into a theater. Later, the shop was closed and a dessert shop opened in its place. Additionally, the name of the passage was changed twice in the last 25 years. Its name was changed the first time into Danışman Passage since the mayor assigned by the military coup-established government found the original name "harmful," but it was later changed into Han Passage following the change in addresses and numbers in Beyoğlu. However, it is still known by its original name, Hacopulo Passage, among the public. Today, Mustafa Amca'nın Yeri (Mustafa Uncle's Place) is situated in the courtyard of the passage, which is a popular place among students and should be visited by those who want to drink a cup of fine Turkish coffee.
Doğan Apartments (1895)
Doğan Apartments, the first building with elevators in Istanbul, is located on Yazıcı Street in present day Serdar-ı Ekrem, which is parallel to İstiklal Avenue. In the 19th century, western socio-cultural models dominated the first phase of social and structural change in Galata and Pera. The multiple story apartments, which were built for minorities and foreigners, took the place of wooden houses and mansions. Towards the end of the 1880s, the biggest and the most elaborate apartment was built by a Belgian banking family. The building, whose architect is unknown, was registered as Helbig Apartments or Nahid Bey Apartments between 1893 and 1919. When an Ottoman Jewish Mair de Baton who was the owner of a paper factory bought the apartments through a tender, the building began to be referred to as the Botton Inn. Later, the building was sold to the Berlin-based insurance company Victoria Insurance and its name was changed to the Victoria Inn. During the maintenance and repair work that took place in 1935, the kitchens were downsized and a bathroom was added to all apartments. The building, which was then sold to the owner of Doğan Insurance, Kazım Taşkent, in 1942, was named after his son Doğan who died during an avalanche in the Alps. Although Doğan Insurance tried to convert the building into a hospital in the 1950s, the apartments were sold separately to individuals and the building's tennis court was sold as a separate property. Today, the area is used as a car park. The six story stone building has a U-shape plan. It is composed of four blocks with separate stairs and elevators. These blocks feature 49 apartments in different sizes as well as maid rooms in the attic, which are also used as storage. Doğan Apartments, which shows incongruity with its surroundings, contains nearly 100 small, cast iron balconies on the front overlooking Serdar-ı Ekrem Street. These balconies were the examples of the façade style of Paris at that time. With its impressive sight, Doğan Apartments have been used as a venue for culture and arts events. The late 1980s Yavuz Turgul film "Muhsin Bey," starring Şener Şen and Uğur Yücel, is considered one the most important films of Turkish cinema, and it was shot at Doğan Apartments.
