Take a tour around Istanbul's best fish markets
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Istanbul's food scene has much to offer during the fall and winter, especially fresh, local fish that you can easily find in the city's various markets



It is that time of the year again: Local fish markets swarm with fishermen carrying freshly caught red mullet, Atlantic bonitos and horse mackerels after sailing hours in the early morning along the Bosporus Strait, the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea. The weather is getting cooler, yet scores of rods still lean over the sides of Galata Bridge where amateur fishermen and their children offer a perfect scene for travel photographers.As commercial fishing season commenced last month, Istanbulites also began satisfying their fish addiction by either flocking to fish bazaars or spending a few hours fishing at the city's numerous spots, such as Arnavutköy, Tarabya, Yeniköy and Rumelihisarı on the European side, and Kanlıca, the Kuleli Military School in Çengelköy and Anadolu Kavağı – the meeting point of the Black Sea and the Bosporus – on the Asian Side. Try fishing early in the morning or at night if you have the right equipment, because fish love the evening, and you will have a greater chance to return home with a bounty.If you are not tempted enough to buy a rod and some fishing apparel, then pay a visit to one of the city's lively fish markets, which are abundant in different seafood, notably in fall and winter months. We compiled the city's most popular places to find the freshest fish.Beşiktaş Fish MarketAside from its popular breakfast spots, Beşiktaş is known for its fish market, a symbol of the district. For years, locals buy seasonal catch at the market, which was renovated in 2008 after sanitary and design-related complaints. Now featuring a modern look, the market won the Chicago Athenaeum: Museum of Architecture and Design Award a few years ago. The market's tiled walls and light bulbs hanging from the ceiling give a breath of fresh air to the street's crowded scene. The Beşiktaş Fish Market calls for bargaining customers to buy bluefish, sea bass and sardines. Remember to get some hamsi (European anchovies) and fry them for a tasty evening meal. Stalls selling fresh vegetables are available at the market as well. You may also try fish restaurants nearby that cook the fish for you.Üsküdar Fish MarketTake a stroll in the Üsküdar Fish Market, a busy and vivid commerce center on the Anatolian side. Sellers draw the attention of customers by shouting what is available, while their voices join the sounds of bargaining customers. With its greengrocers, dried nuts and pickle sellers, the market is also located near some historical structures like an Ottoman-era fountain. For those residing in Üsküdar, the market is ideal to get some fish for dinner. Bare in mind, Istanbul's seafood variety changes over the year, which is why you may feel overwhelmed at a fish counter. Cold-water fish are generally considered tastier than other fish, yet it is highly recommended to ask fish experts what is seasonal. Currently, one kilogram of anchovies is around TL 12 ($4.14), while sardines costs TL 7 and one kilogram of bass is TL 25. One kilogram of mackerel also costs TL 12. The cooler the weather gets, the more fishermen can catch anchovies and the price will further reduce.Kadıköy Fish MarketOur next destination on the Anatolian Side is the Kadıköy Fish Market. It is not enough to call this place merely just a fish market because there are also charcuteries, pastry and dessert spots, grocers, herbalists, fish restaurants, bakeries and cafes, where you can taste traditional Turkish coffee and tea. You can find plentiful amounts of fresh seafood, such as mackerel, salmon, turbots, grey mullets, lobster, mendole, acorn and bream. Located near the ferries, the metro and bus stops, the market is easy to access.Beyoğlu Fish MarketOffering a rich selection of edible marine life, the Beyoğlu Fish Market lies behind the famous Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage) on İstiklal Avenue. A convenient alternative to buying seafood, the market houses fresh products under a lively atmosphere. The open market also leads you to another street that has restaurants serving seafood and delicious mezes accompanied by music. Around 20 years ago, the market used to have 25 stalls selling the city's finest seafood as well as lakerda (cured bonito fish), canned oily sardines and çiroz (cured mackerel). The market was one of the favorite spots of Istanbul's non-Muslim community; however, the number of fish stalls has decreased over the years, and have been replaced mostly by small restaurants.