In Ukraine, where traditions are deeply embedded in everyday life, one cultural gem has withstood the test of time – the vyshyvanka. Beyond being just clothing, these embroidered shirts are living relics, weaving tales of identity and family bonds for the people of Ukraine.
"Our embroidered shirt is like our genetic code. That’s how Ukrainians describe the meaning and importance of their embroidered shirts in their lives. And, indeed, embroidered shirt, 'vyshyvanka' has accompanied Ukrainian people for centuries of years. The cloth is embroidered with thousands of stitches of different colors and structures, which makes it just as beautiful and meaningful as the human genome," explained diplomat Liudmyla Nedilska, the spouse of the Ukrainian Consul General in Istanbul Roman Nedilsky.
The consulate has recently organized a vyshyvanka workshop in collaboration with Istanbul University's Ukrainian Language and Literature Department to introduce this culture as the journey of a vyshyvanka starts early, with a mother's wedding shirt becoming a protective cover for newborns, symbolizing a connection to familial history.
"As children grow, their first shirts are crafted from parental wedding attire, forming a tangible link to their ancestry. Wearing a vyshyvanka becomes a tradition, an homage to the past and a celebration of where one comes from," elaborated Nedilska.
Among the myriad styles, two vyshyvankas stand out – the Borshchiv and Poltava. The Borshchiv shirt, adorned with black ornamentation, tells stories of wartime sacrifice and remembrance. Legends speak of women embroidering in black to honor fallen heroes and even coax rain during droughts.
In contrast, the Poltava vyshyvanka captivates with its "white on white" embroidery, paying homage to serene winter landscapes. During the snowy season, Ukrainian women had ample time for embroidery since there was no other work in the fields or gardens. They would sit by the window, creating masterful embroidered pieces inspired by nature. Also as a favorite among newlyweds, this pristine garment symbolizes the tranquility of snowy fields and the purity of marital union. A woman only wore her wedding vyshyvanka once, on her wedding day. After the celebrations, she took it off and kept it as a family amulet for life. When her child got married, she gave them a vyshyvanka that had been cherished and respected in their family.
"During the war against Ukraine, the men in the city left their families to protect their homeland. Sadly, many of them never returned. In memory of their beloved husbands, brothers and sons, the women from Borshchiv decided to embroider their traditional shirts, called vyshyvankas, only in black. There is also a legend that during a prolonged drought period in Borshchiv, it was believed that wearing black embroidered shirts would bring rain. The town’s water supply nearly ran out, putting everyone in danger of dying from thirst," she explained.
"During a council meeting, an elderly woman shared a dream she had where the Virgin Mary was embroidered with black threads while animals, flowers, and birds came to life under her needle. Many considered this dream to be a sign. All women in Borshchiv agreed to make shirts with black threads. After completing their embroidered shirts, they went to a church for prayer and continued praying until the rain began. It is said that after that day, the drought never happened in Borshchiv again," Nedilska touched upon another legend.
There are more than 100 embroidery techniques in Ukraine, and each region has its style of vyshyvanka with unique colors and embroidery techniques. By seeing someone wearing a vyshyvanka, it can be told which region or city in Ukraine they come from.
Vyshyvankas aren't just patterns; they narrate tales. Men's shirts carry symbols like squares for well-being and oaks for strength. Women's shirts feature flowers such as poppies for remembrance, chamomiles for love, and marigolds for maternal protection. It's a silent language, a visual narrative passed down through generations.
"Russian invasion of Ukraine made its impact on the Ukrainian vyshyvanka style and symbols. Now, Ukrainians, including heroic President of Ukraine Volodymyr Zelenskyy, wear khaki-colored vyshyvankas – military-style embroidered shirts. These shirts have new symbols, such as various types of weapons, including the Turkish drone Bayraktar, which was helpful for the Ukrainians. Moreover, beautiful floral designs inspired by Crimean Tatar culture are popular as a sign of support for the people of Ukrainian Crimea, who are currently living under temporary occupation," she explained.
Vyshyvankas has transcended borders, earning admirers internationally. From royal courts to Hollywood, these embroidered treasures have found patrons in Queen Leticia, Queen Maxima and various global stars. The universal appreciation for embroidered clothing fosters cultural exchange, building connections across continents.
"Embroidered clothes are also very popular in Türkiye, where people have a long-standing tradition of adorning their clothing and homes with embroidery. This brings our cultures together and enhances our closeness. It is an excellent opportunity for cultural exchange between our beautiful countries," she remarked.
