The British Consulate General building in historic Beyoğlu, situated on Tepebaşı Meşrutiyet Avenue in Istanbul, catches the attention of everyone passing by. This splendid building, commissioned by the order of Sultan Selim III in 1801 and constructed by the then British Ambassador Lord Elgin, stands as a remarkable architectural piece. I had the privilege of witnessing the magnificence of this structure firsthand, thanks to the gracious invitation of Mr. Kenan Poleo, who serves as the British Consul General to Istanbul and Trade Commissioner for Eastern Europe and Central Asia.
The consulate building, exuding a neoclassical ambiance, casts an immediate spell from the moment you step across its threshold. It's as if you've taken an instant departure from Türkiye and found yourself transported. The walls are adorned with a mesmerizing array of paintings, each vying for attention. Every facet of design, from the intricately designed chairs to the meticulously chosen carpets, speaks of thoughtful consideration. Among these, a particularly captivating piece captures Elizabeth II's youthful aura on the sprawling staircase – an oil painting that beckons you.
Unquestionably, the ballroom stands as the pinnacle of awe within the building. So many luminaries of history – sultans and kings alike – have graced its interiors that simply setting foot inside leaves one entranced. Within this space, two colossal chandeliers, crafted in Scotland from crystals, dangle in splendor. When you gaze upward, their opulence has the power to make your head spin with wonder. Whispers from Poleo suggest a trilogy of these luminous pieces should adorn the room, yet their current scarcity is shrouded in a tapestry of whispers and urban myths.
Within the scope of Istanbul's consulate chronicles series, Poleo shared his successful diplomatic journey, portraying his vibrant and enjoyable personality, as well as his deep affection for Turkish culture in this enchanting building.
"To be honest, everything you can think of makes me feel at home. I could say that I’m luckier than other Consuls General in Istanbul because my family is originally from Cyprus and I’ve had ties with Türkiye since my childhood days. I fell in love with Istanbul when I first visited while studying Turkish history at University when I was 20. My mum cooks delicious Turkish dishes like yaprak dolma, of course, I enjoy the same here too, but nothing is ever like your mum cooks, is it? Türkiye is a multicultural country, similar to the U.K., welcoming people from many parts of the world to live in harmony," he expressed when I asked him about the things that make him feel at home. For this, Türkiye feels like a second home to Poleo.
His first overseas role took place in Ljubljana, Slovenia, where he was seconded to the Slovenian Government's Economic Department. In this capacity, he assumed the role of an adviser specializing in energy and climate change matters.
Following his stint in Slovenia, he had the "privilege" of being assigned to Berlin twice during the course of his career. In both instances, his roles were characterized by a regional focus. During his initial assignment in Berlin, he held the position of Regional Director for a network of science and innovation attaches. This role involved close collaboration with numerous countries, aiming to foster innovation and research partnerships. Notably, he played a pivotal role in establishing the Science and Innovation Office at the Consulate in Istanbul and initiating the Türkiye Newton fund.
His subsequent posting prior to Istanbul, which was also situated in Berlin, was as Minister Counsellor Trade in Germany. In this capacity, he also assumed the role of Deputy Trade Commissioner in Europe, overseeing trade matters across Western and Eastern Europe. This multifaceted career trajectory highlights his diverse and impactful contributions in various international roles.
Contrary to the "earnest" duties that Poleo carries out as a diplomat, his personality is just as colorful. He constantly has a smile on his face, making everyone around him feel at ease with his delightful jokes in both English and Turkish.
"I’m about to finish my second year in Türkiye and I’m still impressed, every day, by the dynamism of the country. I didn’t struggle to adapt to Türkiye, it embraced me from the very moment I started my posting," he expressed.
For Poleo, Turkish culture is a well-known territory thanks to his Turkish Cypriot roots.
"We used to go to family weddings and gatherings with my parents and my sisters, watch Turkish movies, and listen to Turkish music. My grandmother Rebiya, used to watch Turkish movies and I got to know Turkish actors such as Fatma Girik, Tarık Akan, Cüneyt Arkın and Gülşen Bubikoğlu (prominent stars of Turkish classical cinema). So I feel like I have never been away from Türkiye in that sense and it feels like a second home to me," he said.
When I ask him about the first Turkish word he encountered, he said: "I encountered my first words in Turkish as a child in the U.K. from my family so my first Turkish word was 'Baba (dad),'" he laughs, "But the most challenging Turkish word for me is 'sürdürülebilirlik (sustainability)' and as you can see, I cannot pronounce it correctly despite all my efforts since two years!"
His father Hasan was a big fan of Ibrahim Tatlıses, Zeki Müren and Bülent Ersoy so he was well acquainted with the music too. "In my family, we all loved Ajda Pekkan, Sertap Erener and Sezen Aksu. On top of them, from the new generation artists, I enjoy listening to Mabel Matiz, Oğuzhan Koç, Karsu, Zeynep Bastık, Kenan Doğulu and many more. My favorite songs are from last summer: "Savaştım Harbiden" by Zeynep Bastik & Kozmos and "Imdat" by Murda & Hadise. I’m looking forward to listening to new tracks on holiday later," he elaborated.
As Türkiye boasts a plethora of intriguing and distinctive cultural practices, Poleo loves "drinking an endless amount of tea during meetings."
Among the multitude of gastronomic wonders, lahmacun emerges as a personal favorite for the diplomat. "Although I had it many times in Istanbul, the lahmacun I had in Gaziantep, in its hometown, was really the best! But I should admit that my cooking skills are not as bright as my diplomatic skills," he laughs, "So I prefer the experts to cook the delicious Turkish dishes and I’m more than happy to enjoy eating their pieces of art!"
Poleo's journey took him to various Turkish cities, each with its own unique story to tell. According to him, Istanbul, not just due to its role as the Consul General's station but for its breathtaking vistas, captures his affection. "It is an amazing 24-hour city with one of the most spectacular settings of the Golden Horn, the Bosporus Strait, and sitting on the unique geographical convergence of Europe and Asia. I have one of the best views of Istanbul from here in the consulate – I feel very privileged," he said.
"Aside from Istanbul, I loved visiting Bursa to experience the history and to learn about the Silk Road, and still so important now for our economic relations. I loved Izmir and visiting our historic Consulate built by British engineers in the 19th century who were working on Turkish railroads. I loved going down to the coast and visiting Muğla and Marmaris – stunning coastline and amazing sea. I particularly love visiting Ankara, which feels like a thriving metropolis with unexpectedly good fish restaurants where I ate fish I’d never eaten like lüfer (bluefish)."
"On top of it all, my heart truly aches for Hatay and Gaziantep, which I had the privilege of visiting in November 2022, they, unfortunately, were heavily hit by the devastating earthquake on Feb. 6. I will never forget the lovely people I met there, and would like to express my and the U.K. government’s solidarity with Türkiye and the people of all the provinces hit by the earthquake," he expressed.
"Türkiye and the U.K. have amazing bilateral relations. It was only less than a month ago that the U.K. and Türkiye announced plans to enter into negotiations for an updated Free Trade Agreement. It will build on an already thriving trading relationship, which reached 23.5 billion pounds ($29.92 billion) in 2022. Right after the FTA announcement, three ministers from the U.K. visited Türkiye with programs that included attendance at the 2023 International Defence Industry Fair (IDEF) and the announcement of U.K. support for a major high-speed rail project between Mersin, Adana and Gaziantep. And we have an exciting agenda for the months ahead," he said.
While his diplomatic responsibilities often command his time on such an agenda, Poleo naturally does not have much time to watch TV. "But, my mum Emine watches Turkish series instead of me. She loves watching 'Veda Mektubu' and 'Ya Çok Seversen' for example, and if I’m there when the new episode is on, she doesn’t even look at me and concentrates on the screen. So, at least one member of the Poleo family enjoys world-famous Turkish TV series which are another important international trade item for Türkiye," he said.
As Poleo navigates the intricate world of diplomacy, his appreciation for Türkiye's culture, history and people will undoubtedly deepen as he said: "The food, the beaches, all the amazing historic sites but above all, the great people of Türkiye who embrace you with their endless hospitality. I feel very privileged and proud for being posted in this country that I truly love and I want to make the most out of in my remaining time both diplomatically but also personally!"
