Tracing vibrant legacy of Sephardic community in Istanbul
Inside view of the Quincentennial Foundation Museum of Turkish Jews in Istanbul, Türkiye, March 25, 2017. (AA Photo)

The 'Sephardic Flavors and Aromas' exhibition, dedicated to Sephardic cuisine and history, has been opened in the Quincentennial Foundation Museum of Turkish Jews in Istanbul, exploring the tantalizing culinary legacy of Sephardic culture through historical notes and gastronomic discoveries



As one of the world's most dynamic and culturally diverse cities, Istanbul boasts a rich artistic and cultural legacy that spans centuries.

At the heart of this cultural tapestry lies the Sephardic Jewish community, whose history and traditions have become integral to the city's vibrant cultural mosaic. With its unique blend of Spanish and Ottoman influences, Sephardic culture has left an indelible mark on Istanbul's language, music, art and cuisine. From the haunting melodies of Ladino ballads to the mouth-watering aromas of traditional Sephardic dishes, the sights, sounds, and flavors of the Sephardic community, Istanbul offers a captivating glimpse into a rich and complex cultural heritage.

To celebrate this deep-rooted tie between the two cultures, a new exhibition has been dedicated to Sephardic cuisine and history has been opened in the Quincentennial Foundation Museum of Turkish Jews, with the collaboration of the Red de Juderias de Espana ("the Network of Jewish Quarters"), the Spanish Embassy and the Istanbul Cervantes Institute as part of their efforts to research and preserve Sephardic culture.

The exhibition hosted was prepared based on the work called "Sephardic Flavors and Aromas" ("Sabores de Sefarad") written by chef and food photographer Javier Zafra. Through historical notes, gastronomic discoveries, and thought-provoking images, the exhibition explores the tantalizing culinary legacy of Sephardic culture. From savory stews and vegetable dishes to decadent desserts, the collection offers a sensory feast for the eyes and the palate, showcasing the rich tapestry of Sephardic cuisine in all its glory.

Zafra's discernment highlights the paramount significance of Sephardic cuisine in preserving the history and traditions of the Sephardic Jewish community. It is a cuisine that transcends mere gustatory satisfaction and nourishment, embodying a sense of identity and cultural heritage.

Describing himself as an avid researcher of Sephardic culture, Zafra passionately contributes to the "Caminos de Sefarad" concept. This term refers to the routes and paths taken by Sephardic Jews during their diaspora from Spain. As a part of this effort, visitors to the exhibition will have the opportunity to delve into the chronology of Sephardic culture and trace its roots back to the Romans, Visigoths and Ottomans, whose influences are imprinted in the rich cultural tapestry of Sephardic Jews. Zafra aptly characterizes this culture as a "cultural intersection" that brings together many traditions, and his contribution helps shed light on the importance of preserving and promoting the legacy of the Sephardic community.

Chef Javier Zafra (L) and the managing director of Red de Juderias de Espana, Marta Puig Quixal, at the opening of the exhibition, Istanbul, Türkiye, April 16, 2023. (Photo courtesy of Cervantes Institute)

The expulsion of the Jews from Spain and Portugal forced many to flee to other parts of the world, including North Africa, the Middle East, the Ottoman Empire and the Americas. As they traveled, the Sephardic Jews brought their rich culture, traditions and customs, which impacted the communities where they settled. One of the most famous routes taken by Sephardic Jews was the "Caminos de Sefarad" in Spain. This route covers several cities in Spain that were once home to significant Jewish populations, including Toledo, Cordoba, Seville and Granada. These cities were known for their synagogues, Jewish quarters and cultural landmarks that witnessed the long Jewish presence in Spain.

Zafra also shed light on the fascinating cultural exchange between Turkish and Sephardic cultures. For example, he explained that one of Türkiye's famous street foods, kokoreç, consisting of grilled sheep intestines, actually owes its current form to a Sephardic community who introduced it to Turks under the name "Los zarajos" in Spanish. Similarly, dolma, a traditional Turkish dish, has a counterpart in Sephardic cuisine known as "Los dolmas," which Zafra believes is a transformed version of the original recipe. Lastly, Turkish pide, or flatbread, shares some similarities with "la coca" in Sephardic culture, which is also in the shape of a ship, serving as a reminder of the arduous journey, and expulsion of Jews.

The managing director of Red de Juderias de Espana, Marta Puig Quixal, also attended the exhibition's opening and expressed the event's significance. "It was essential for us to come here to Istanbul, one of the most significant places for Sephardic people. Witnessing the exhibit bringing so many individuals together is emotional and incredible," she remarked.

Quixal emphasized that Spain is going through a period of change, where many cities and municipalities are revisiting their archives to recognize their heritage. Within this context, it is crucial to recognize the Jewish culture and the Sephardic community's strong connection, which has persevered for centuries. She explained the interaction between different cultures, with many daily expressions and habits originating from a common root.

Quixal also elaborated on the Ladino language, which was historically spoken by Sephardic Jews living in the Iberian Peninsula before expulsion in 1492. In addition, she highlighted Turkish influences, such as using "k" instead of some letters, to emphasize what the diaspora brought to the culture.

"Today, it is not only us that are thankful but also the people who come here for us introducing such a layered culture at the heart of this city. We hope to be able to display this exhibition in other cities of Türkiye, as the first step is Izmir, where a Sephardic community also thrived for years," she remarked.

One of the prominent guests at the exhibition was undoubtedly award-winning veteran photographer artist Izzet Keribar, a Sephardic Turkish Jew born in Istanbul. In most of his interviews, the renowned photographer expressed how happy he was to have been born in Türkiye, grown up and lived with Turks.

He also shared that he had never witnessed anti-Semitism in Türkiye, which has received Sephardic Jews cordially.