Hungarian chef Agnes Toth transforms traditional cuisine into a fragrant masterpiece in Istanbul, celebrating the essence of edible flowers in her floral-themed culinary creations
The word "flower" even when heard, evokes a sense of freshness and vitality.
They also often carry deep cultural significance and are a source of inspiration in many aspects of culture. In line with this, the Hungarian chef Agnes Toth who is widely recognized for her gastro-diplomacy efforts working in the Istanbul Liszt Institute Hungarian Cultural Center drew inspiration from edible flowers to create a floral-themed dining experience at a fresh summer night.
Recently, flowers have gained attention in the realm of contemporary gastronomic innovations. However, according to Toth, there are already many flowers that are accepted and used in Hungarian culture. That's why she specifically wanted to set the table with flowers as the main actors, a "Dinner of Flowers."
With her menu incorporating flowers, she also aims to break the stereotype that Hungarian gastronomy is limited to the world-renowned dish goulash but a rich cuisine that is embedded with many vegetable-based dishes.
The four primary flowers featured on the menu were thoughtfully chosen, each bearing significant symbolism within both Hungarian culture and the broader cultural context. As a result, Toth has skillfully crafted a unique narrative for every dish, dedicating meticulous research to each one during the preparation process.
Rose
Agnes Toth offers insight into her deliberate choice of roses for the initial course before serving it.
Roses, one of the oldest flowers known to humanity, have historically been closely associated with notions of beauty and femininity across cultures and eras.
Beyond their romantic symbolism, roses carry deeper meanings, representing elements like secrecy, gratitude, friendship, and an air of mystery.
In Turkish literature, the rose assumes a prominent role as a symbol. It embodies the unattainable love of the nightingale and serves as a representation of the Sufi's spiritual journey toward enlightenment. In this context, the thorns of the rose are symbolic of the challenges and obstacles encountered on this path.
Toth particularly highlighted the prevalence of cold fruit soups, especially during Hungary's hot summer days. Hence, she opted for a cold beetroot cherry soup with rose candy as the starter. This choice aimed not only to open hearts with the fragrance of roses but also to create an unforgettable culinary experience when combined with the bold flavors of goat cheese.
Elderflower
The hors d'oeuvre "cold fresh yellow bean stew with elderflower syrup" is widely consumed in Hungary according to Toth. The stew, which refers to Hungarian "fözelek," is a traditional dish that can be described as a type of vegetable stew or a thick vegetable soup. It is a popular comfort food in Hungary and is often served as a side dish alongside various meats or as a main course. It is known for its creamy and thick consistency, achieved by cooking the vegetables with a roux or a thickening agent such as sour cream or flour.
Also, Toth explained that dried elderberries placed in the pillowcase are believed to alleviate negative emotions and facilitate a good night's sleep.
Lavender
"Lavender," as the name suggests, is derived from the Latin verb "lavare," meaning to wash, evoking a sense of purification. This ancient flower, used in the embalming processes of ancient Egypt and in perfumes, is also known to have flowed through the channels of Roman baths.
Besides its anti-inflammatory effects, lavender has been used to symbolize purity and cleanliness, even during major plagues in Europe. Lavender was placed under mattresses in sachets and strewn on streets for hygiene.
According to Agnes Toth, lavender also carries a sense of summer for the Hungarians. Therefore, Toth selected chicken thigh rolls with lavender tomato chutney served with rosemary potato chips for the main course. The surprising harmony between tomatoes and lavender is truly astonishing as they complement each other unexpectedly.
Sprigs of rosemary tucked between potato chips on the plate provide an unusual touch. According to Toth, rosemary also holds symbolic significance, as per a Hungarian superstition; if a man and a woman touch an open rosemary flower, their love will come through.
Thanks to the combination of elderberry and lavender in hors d'oeuvre and main dish, the flowers significantly help with digestion, leaving a fresh taste behind.
Camomile
The evening's final course, a floral pancake with camomile-infused apricot jam and camomile vanilla cream, is a true feast made entirely from daisies.
Throughout history, camomiles, also considered one of the most medicinal plants, have lent incredible lightness and flavor to this pancake.
I can confidently say that this pancake sweetened with apricot jam without using sugar is the lightest dessert I've ever had.
Chef Toth took her delicious pancake's inspiration from a restaurant in New York, Agi's Counter, a Hungarian restaurant that specializes in traditional dishes.