Ancient traditions meet modern revival in Azerbaijan’s viticulture
The earliest evidence of grape winemaking comes in the form of pottery jars holding remnants of wine compounds, dating back to approximately 6000 B.C., Azerbaijan. (Photo courtesy of Azerbaijan Travel)

Azerbaijan is full of surprising discoveries, and few are as unexpected as its booming wine industry, with rolling emerald-green vineyards set against the backdrop of snow-capped peaks and a rich viticulture history dating back to 6000 B.C.



For the first-time visitor, Azerbaijan is full of surprising discoveries with a diverse selection of grapes, an enthralling history and rolling emerald-green vineyards set against the backdrop of snow-capped peaks, the country offers a remarkable experience.

Wine has been produced in this part of the world for millennia. The earliest evidence of grape winemaking comes in the form of pottery jars holding remnants of wine compounds, dating back to approximately 6000 B.C. Remnants of the oldest-known wine press and fermentation vats, dating back to 4000 B.C., were unearthed in the valley of the Arpa River, which flows through Azerbaijan's Sharur region.

In 1860, German settlers established what is now the longest-operating company in the country, located in Helenendorf (now Goygol). Legend has it that in 1856, French silk producers purchased silkworm seeds in Sheki and made a brief stop in Ganja on their return journey. Advised to visit the nearby colony of Helenendorf in Ganja, they arrived at Christopher Vohrer's residence, sampled the wine and remarked that it resembled the wine from Burgundy. Satisfied, they departed with enough wine for their entire journey. The French's comment bolstered Vohrer's confidence in his craft, inspiring him to commit himself to the challenging endeavor of winemaking.

Just two years later, Vohrer established Azerbaijan's inaugural large-scale winery, initiating the sale of wine from that year onward. Initially, he possessed several acres of vineyards, but shortly thereafter, he established the Vohrer Brothers company and commenced expanding them.

Remnants of the oldest-known wine press and fermentation vats, dating back to 4000 B.C. (Wikipedia Photo)

Despite Germans owning only 6% of the vineyards, the Vohrer and Hummel brothers, situated in Helenendorf, purportedly contributed 58% of the entire wine output in the Caucasus. This dominance stemmed from the unique orientation of German-owned vineyards, extending from west to east, facilitating efficient airflow and minimal damage to the grapevines, unlike those owned by local farmers, which spanned from north to south.

The development of viticulture in Azerbaijan can be traced back to the tenure of Heydar Aliyev, who assumed the role of the first secretary of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of the Azerbaijan SSR in 1969.

In the Soviet Union, Azerbaijan played a significant role in wine and cognac production. Over time, both the quantity and quality of wine products saw consistent improvement, while their variety expanded. In 1984, the country harvested 2.1 million tonnes of grapes, resulting in the production of over 100 million decaliters of raw materials.

However, Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev’s anti-alcohol campaign, which began in 1985, dealt a huge blow to viticulture in the country.

Over 130,000 hectares of highly productive vineyards were eradicated, leading to the near annihilation of some native grape varieties. Subsequently, due to Armenian occupation from 1988 onward, more than 45,000 hectares of vineyards in Karabakh were left neglected.

Following the dissolution of the USSR, Azerbaijan, like all other former republics, witnessed a widespread deterioration across nearly all sectors of its economy. This decline included the destruction of grape orchards containing table varieties, previously under state ownership, the collapse of state farms and the closure of factories.

The development of viticulture in Azerbaijan can be traced back to the tenure of Heydar Aliyev, who assumed the role of the first secretary of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of the Azerbaijan SSR in 1969, Azerbaijan. (Photo courtesy of Azerbaijan Travel)

After a considerable period, in 2002, Azerbaijan passed the law "On Viticulture and Winemaking." From that point onward, the revival of this sector commenced within the country. Once again, both small-scale, family-operated wineries and modern industrial facilities are producing. Azerbaijan boasts three distinct wine-producing regions: Anticipate the emergence of robust, earthy notes from the mid-altitude terroirs situated in north-central Shamakhi, where the indigenous Madrasa red grape thrives; immerse yourself in history within the Lesser Caucasus Zone of western Azerbaijan, and the birthplace of the nation's viniculture traditions at the Caspian coast, where grapes grow at lower elevations and in soils abundant with salt.

In 2011, Azerbaijani President Ilham Aliyev endorsed a decree approving the state program "On the Development of Viticulture in Azerbaijan for 2012-2020." The program aimed to expand the country's vineyard area to 50,000 hectares, increase grape production to 500,000 tons and raise wine production to 30 million decaliters.

Azerbaijani authorities have recently introduced a new system comprising eight smaller appellations, aiming to encompass potential wine regions such as the semi-arid Nakhchivan, the verdant Lankaran in the south and Karabakh, each with its own unique winemaking heritage.

Beyond wine and viticulture, the South Caucasus also boasts centuries-old traditions in toasting and table etiquette. In traditional gatherings, toasts can range from poetic to humorous or even daring, with creativity given full expression. What truly matters is the sense of unity, the laughter and the sharing of thoughts.